Where monks still tread

Badia Passignano: the Abbey

Plumb in the middle of the Antinori wine estates in Chianti sits the Abbey of San Michele a Passignano, in its nest of cypresses.


The abbey was founded in 890 and joined the Vallombrosans (a branch of the Benedictine Order), in the 11th century, under the aegis of Saint John Gualbert or San Giovanni Gualberto (for more on his Vallombrosans see a previous post, Of Monks and Forests). The abbey has been renovated several times and resembles more a castle than a monastery. 

the forbidding western bastions of the monastery, softened by caper bushes

The walls and towers were built in the 15th century but neo-Gothic additions were made in the 19th by a Polish count who bought the abbey after the Italian State closed it in 1866. The name Passignano derives from the 16th century painter who decorated the interior of the abbey church. 
 In 1986 the Vallombrosan Order bought back the monastery and have returned to live there, in small numbers.

the use of the rood screen dates to the 13th century but the monastic choir behind it was installed in 1549

Like the monastery as a whole, the church of San Michele bears witness to centuries of creation and destruction. In 1255 the original complex was destroyed by a Florentine family during the eternal struggles for domination between Florence and Siena. The 11th century crypt is the oldest part which is extant and the 12th century statue of Saint Michael Archangel is on display in the church. 

Longobard sculpture of San Michele slaying the dragon, dating to the 12th century

The church was altered and re-altered through the 16th and 17th centuries but the date 1287 has been discovered on one of the original beams now hidden by these alterations.
The chapel behind the main altar displays paintings by Domenico Cresti, known as Passignano, who was born here and was instrumental in converting the church from romanesque to baroque (1598-1602). The chapel to the left is dedicated to the founder, San Giovanni Gualberto.

 The choir, from 1549 is finely worked and contains inscriptions in Greek and Hebrew from Psalms, an indication of the cultural level of the monastery's inhabitants. 

 In fact the monks taught Greek and Hebrew along with science and mathematics in the 16th century. Galileo himself spent some months as a master there; his links with the Vallombrosans went back to his youth when he spent time as a novice at Vallombrosa

However, were you to visit the Abbey for one reason only, that reason would probably be the Last Supper of Domenico Ghirlandaio, painted, as was the custom, in the refectory in 1476.
The 540-year-old fresco, including the lunettes by Rosselli, was reopened to the public in 2015 after 10 years of restoration, thanks to the sponsorship of charitable organizations, the Antinori family and the Italian Fine Arts Institution.
 
This Last Supper was the first of three completed by Ghirlandaio (the others are that of Ognissanti and San Marco in Florence) and is huge: 3.35 by over 10.36 metres (34 feet by 11). In the monastery's account books are recorded the amounts received by Ghirlandaio and his brother as well as the materials used.


Although the execution of the perspective is considered imperfect, the figures a little stiff and unnatural, reflecting more the style of 14th century Last Suppers, there is a warmth of colour and an intimacy which are novel. The apostles are depicted representing various age groups, and each is distinctly different; surely portraits of real people. 
  

The head of John is lovingly painted resting against Christ's breast.The contrast with the head of Judas could not be greater.

The table is angled so that the vessels and viands are visible; the detail of these including the reflections on glass and metal, bears witness to Ghirlandaio's acquaintance with the Flemish masters. It is virtually a still life study.

this carafe contains a reflection of the actual windows of the refectory

In contrast with the more usual theme of the Crucifixion, the lunettes above by Bernardo di Stefano Rosselli, represent two scenes from Genesis: the expulsion from the Garden of Eden and Cain killing Abel.  

lunettes by Bernardo di Stefano Rosselli (1474)

But there are other treats in store at the Badia.

the cloisters, the central space of Benedictine monastic life, although altered over the centuries (originally the upper level contained an open corridor)

we were unable to see this door from the inside but the cloisters are lined with such doors which must be spectacular from the interior

the handsome 15th century kitchen, still intact: the stone table carries the date 1600

forks used by the monks in times more devout: 60 forks for 60 monks, including novices?

the doorway with its fine pietra serena surround was added in the 15th century...

...one of the handsome carved doors which are also inlaid on the inside

looking from the formal garden towards the abbey

across the hedges and topiary of the green garden towards the rather charming if delapidated chicken coops where we discovered a lone pheasant

ingenious corner steps from which to peer over the abbey walls at the wider world

Visiting Hours:

Mon-Sat: 10-12 and 1530-1730 (summer)
10-12 and 15-1630 (winter)
Sundays and other festivals: 15.30-18 (summer)
15-17 (winter)

One of the four monks currently living at the Badia will lead you on a brief guided tour, in Italian, of church and monastery; call 055 8072341 to reserve a tour in English

No ticket is required but donations are gratefully accepted 

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There are several good restaurants in the village of Passignano; one (the Osteria di Passignano) even has a Michelin star!